Maintenance: 1957 Plymouth Belvedere Convertible
June 22, 2010 the Plymouth arrived from Salem
Indiana.
Plymouth Belvedere convertibles were only
produced from 1957 to 1959.
Engine compartment when it arrived June
2010
JUNE 2010
- 6/26/10 De-greased and pressure washed the engine compartment
and underside of vehicle
- 6/27/10 Changed oil & filter, painted oil filter can
orange, greased chassis. (last oil change 1994 according to the door
sticker)
- 6/29/10 Replaced air filter and fuel filter
JULY 2010
- 7/2/10 Cleaned and packed front wheel bearings, installed new
grease seals
- 7/4/10 Bead blasted and painted 5 rims (wheels) gloss
black
- 7/5/10 Bead blasted and painted valve covers gloss black
- 7/5/10 Mounted 5 new American Classic tires with metal stems
and balanced
(205/75R14 [radial] 2 ½ whitewall )
- 7/6/10 Installed valve covers with new gaskets
- 7/7/10 Installed overhauled driveline (Replaced rear universal
joint and front ball & trunnion joint, and balanced driveshaft)
- 7/7/10 Installed new front shocks
- 7/13/10 Installed new 180 degree radiator thermostat
- 7/14/10 New upper ball joints, new upper torsion arm bushings,
and manual steering box rebuilt.
- 7/19/10 Complete brake job; replaced master cylinder, all wheel
cylinders, brake hoses and brake shoes. Painted backing plates and metal plate
under master cylinder black
- 7/20/10 Aligned front end after suspension work completed
- 7/27/10 Rear pinion seal replaced
- 7/28/10 Replaced oil in rearend and fixed some engine oil
leaks
- 7/28/10 Replaced ignition key core, fixed blinkers, installed
new electric temp sending unit - it works...
- 7/29/10 Touched up yellow paint
- 7/30/10 Transmission serviced; filter and fluids changed -
(plenty of clutch material left - worked on in 1983)
- 7/30/10 Changed oil SAE 10-30 again while fixing leak
AUGUST 2010
- 8/1/10 New; fuel pump, fan belt, spark plugs, spark plug wires,
distributor cap and rotor
- 8/2/10 Leave for
Hot August Nights in
Reno.....
- 8/8/10 Returned from Hot August Nights - with no problems!
Yahoo!!!
- 8/16/10 Carburetor off for complete concourse correct show
quality overhaul.
- 8/17/10 Radiator routed out and heater core tested and
cleaned.
- 8/20/10 Working on cleaning up the engine compartment
- 8/22/10 Cleaned, primed and painted the firewall yellow
- 8/23/10 Cleaned, sanded engine compartment and painted satin
black.
SEPTEMBER 2010
- 9/4/10 Intake manifold re-installed
- 9/4/10 Front gravel pans painted metallic silver
- 9/4/10 Painted several engine parts Ultra Black (air cleaner,
fan, pulleys, etc.)
- 9/5/10 Installed new water pump, thermostat housing, stock temp
sensor and painted frame with Por-15
- 9/5/10 Installed front gravel pans, buffed, and 5 vertical
stainless strips
- 9/14/10 Heater water control valve rebuilt and installed
- 9/19/10 Cleaned rust from inside front bumper and painted
silver, re-installed some small parts in engine compartment
- 9/19/10 Removed exhaust manifolds to replace with ceramic
coated manifolds. (Major issue - broke off several old studs)
Cap's Brite Hot Coatings www.capsbhc.com Ceramic coated in
cast iron color $163
- 9/21/10 Chromed rear trunk emblem - looks good
- 9/25/10 I had to take the heads off to remove the old exhaust
manifold studs and install new ones. Intake manifold had to come off
again.
Good thing! In the process I found 2 bent pushrods. One
accounted for a click I have been hearing. I presume after the engine had been
sitting for a long time and they started it up in Salem Indiana a couple of
intake valves were stuck due to old varnish which bent the pushrods. Anyway new
pushrods are on their way and new studs are installed.
- 9/27/10 Replaced the fan, cleaned and painted the generator.
Brushes are 90%. Old fan was really chewed up..
OCTOBER 2010
- 10/8/10 Installed heads and 16 new Melling push rods. Adjusted
the valves cold.
- 10/9/10 Installed radiator, heater core, blower fan, generator,
ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and horns.
- 10/10/10 Painted inside of hood
- 10/11/10 Had a machine shop drill and tap a hole ($35) in the
intake manifold under the thermostat housing for the MOON gauges temperature
sending unit. The wall is over 1/4" thick and the fitting is tapered pipe
threads for a tight fit.
- 10/15/10 Installed intake manifold and rebuilt carburetor.
- 10/30/10 painted the inside of the hood satin black. Worked on
miscellaneous issues and wiring.
GOOD NEWS: previous owners son said the
engine was overhauled in 1982 so it has 10,000 miles on it. I removed
the intake manifold and it is as clean as can be inside.
What in the Power-Pak Package?
Original Power-Pak parts indicated by an "A" at the end of
the part number.
- Special Distributor - Auto-Lite p/n IBP4003A
- Special Four-barrel Carter WCFB Carburetor 385 CFM - Tag#
2530SA
- Special intake manifold - Four-barrel Casting #
1619826
- Larger air cleaner with a paper filter for the first
time, previously were oil bath
- Dual Exhaust for less back pressure
- 235 HP (More horsepower)
In a 1957 Hot Rod Magazine test a 57
Plymouth did 0 to 60mph in 9.6 seconds with the 301 Power-Pak engine.
I just installed the distributor with
the new PerTronix electronic module.
The Carter WCFB four-barrel 385 CFM
carburetor has been fully rebuilt and plated by RECARBCO (www.recarbco.com) to
original specifications.
Not having a location where I could
install the temperature sending unit for a set of MOON gauges I had a
machine shop for $35 drill and tap a hole to install a fitting in the
thermostat housing. There is over a quarter inch of material in the casting
to tap into.
NOVEMBER 2010
- 11/3/10 Received and installed my distributor from
PerTronix. They put in a new plate and mounted the electronic module. I
installed a flame thrower coil to match the PerTronix system and give 20,000
more volts to the spark plugs.
- 11/4/10 Fired up the Poly 301 - SWEET! Starts quickly, I
had to fix some fuel leaks.
- 11/6/10 Installed new rear shocks
- 11/8/10 New exhaust system installed with chrome turndown
tips.
- 11/9/10 Valves adjusted, heads re-torqued, engine timed,
idle set, choke worked on.
- 11/11/10 New transmission shift cable and back up switch
installed.
- 11/12/10 New motor mounts and transmission mount
installed
DECEMBER 2010
- 12/20/10 Rebuilt Generator with new Armature (solved
issue with high voltage)
- 12/21/10 Install new regulator (voltage remains constant
at 14 volts)
To polarize a generator connect all wires to the regulator,
connect the battery (negative ground) with the engine off. Momentarily
connect a jumper wire between ARMATURE terminal and the BATTERY (+) - a small
spark should happen.
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CONTINUE MAINTENANCE AND NEW UPHOLSTERY 2011 |
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